They have a video too. It looks pretty nice, but I must admit to being disappointed at how the shell is loaded. Mind you, if reasonably priced......
£230 posted to my door. Was a little gutted i missed out on the Zeta labs bazooka. And was heading towards some Mortar TAG system idea and this just popped out the blue and brought it on impulse.
Will review when its in my hands. 
Stu
Unissued, minty 1939 dated French Army Modele 1938 "Golf" pantalones. Made for a 7 ft giant with 40 inch waist, which explains why they were unissued. There was no one actually big enough to wear these in 1940.
My Precious
nice , only used mine for less than 10 minutes but was fun , until some damm ruskie shot me in the back
Having enjoyed my Gj loadout, i bought a new backpack for it 
now as the leather is old and dry , is it safe to treat it with anything or just best to leave ?
Oohh very nice Perhaps some neatsfoot oil or even dubbin?
+1 for neatsfoot oil. Saturate a small bit of cotton cloth with some and rub onto the leather edging trim carefully, to minimise any going onto the fabric.
A Proud Member Of 'Team Spleen!' who play mainly at Gunman Airsoft, Tuddenham, Suffolk.
I was strongly advised AGAINST Neatsfoot oil by a Saddler, he swore by Ko-Cho-Line, certainly seems to keep my boots happy and he insisted it was the best thing for reviving old leather too.
But for the love of god make sure you're careful, it'll stain canvas awfully.
I've fired a bullet on every continent. Nearly hit someone, too.
I was strongly advised AGAINST Neatsfoot oil by a Saddler, he swore by Ko-Cho-Line,
I use both - they're totally different products used for different jobs. I love Kao-Cho-Line (Coacholene) and it's fantastic for making extremely brittle/dry leather usable again, but after it's use it's best to then use neatsfoot to keep the leather from drying out again. Also, for original items, Kao-Cho-Line contains pink dye to "revive colour" of horse tack, which unfortunately will turned your un-tanned leather equipment red or nutty brown.
Using good quality neatsfoot oil (Carr, Day & Martin, etc...) which doesn't contain petroleum distillates will not rot stitching (which is what most saddlers worry about due to the usual chinese whispers as has been passed on to you) and apply it warm (warm up the neatsfoot can in a bowl of hot water).
A Proud Member Of 'Team Spleen!' who play mainly at Gunman Airsoft, Tuddenham, Suffolk.
I was strongly advised AGAINST Neatsfoot oil by a Saddler, he swore by Ko-Cho-Line,
I use both - they're totally different products used for different jobs. I love Kao-Cho-Line (Coacholene) and it's fantastic for making extremely brittle/dry leather usable again, but after it's use it's best to then use neatsfoot to keep the leather from drying out again. Also, for original items, Kao-Cho-Line contains pink dye to "revive colour" of horse tack, which unfortunately will turned your un-tanned leather equipment red or nutty brown.
Using good quality neatsfoot oil (Carr, Day & Martin, etc...) which doesn't contain petroleum distillates will not rot stitching (which is what most saddlers worry about due to the usual chinese whispers as has been passed on to you) and apply it warm (warm up the neatsfoot can in a bowl of hot water).
I stand corrected! Some useful info there, maybe I'll start using the stuff myself. 
I've fired a bullet on every continent. Nearly hit someone, too.
Echo McV's comments. But I'd say only use either to revive dry and tired leather and use with care - once flexible then dubbin is perfectly sufficient for maintenance. Over-do neatsfoot and the leather will be slippery, slimy and weak as the leather fibres will slide apart.
Also, if any original gear you get is a bit grubby, wash in water slightly cooler than your hands with a scentless pH neutral soap (don't bother using saddle soap, it tries to do too many jobs at once) like 'Simple' soap (what I choose to use) using a gentle caressing motion with your palms and fingers as if washing your own body in the shower (ooh er! 
), rinsing regularly. Hang the items up to dry at room temperature, and apply neatfoot oil liberally to both surfaces of the leather when the leather is dry to touch but not completely dry (the soap will remove any remaing oils still inherent in the leather when it removes the dirt from it, so these oils need to be replaced before the leather fully dries out and could crack). Neatsfoot oil will darken the leather (it will lighten up a bit after application has finished, but the leather would have originally been darker and richer in colour before it was allowed to dry out over a period of 70 years...
A Proud Member Of 'Team Spleen!' who play mainly at Gunman Airsoft, Tuddenham, Suffolk.
nice....I just use a leather basalm/feed on my GJ rucks, that my mother used for the horse tack, works ok so far. a few straps look like replacements on yours? whats the date of manufacture?
gj
Just got myself a nice winter parka, a cap insignia set, FJ chest eagle, helmet decals, a lovely P38 holster and a P38!
Ive recently bought some FJ hobnails. What would you guys recommend for preserving the soles? as they have been wet already.
Rich
What would you guys recommend for preserving the soles? as they have been wet already.
Dubbin is all you need - don't be tempted to use any other leather treatment as it will make the sole leather soft.
Okay. Thanks Chomley.
Rich
Cheers guys for all the good advice
Just picked up the M1928 doughboy pack I was missing for my G.I. kit, then suddenly remembered my leggings are missing a lace, my garand is in bits and my M41 jacket is too short on the sleeves! Guess I'll be replacing a few bits soon...
I've been very good lately and restrained my buying impulses however recently 2 things came up that I couldn't resist, one only marginally WW2 an Action Sterling and the second, one of the lovely Webleys that have just become available
